I will try to keep this polite. This is a forum for shrimp keepers and not for people who want to feed them to their gourami. If you were interested in keeping and breeding dwarf shrimp, that's great welcome. But unfortunately you have pretty much made your intentions clear. Is this the sort of get the numbers up in the forum you wanted,snappaguy?
Yep dragonfly larvae. Net it, get rid of it. Before they become dragonflies they live in water in this form and they are aggressive nasty hunters. Get it out now Morgan. What have you put in your tank recently?
Woah. Just read my post again. Meant to be tds from tap is 300-400ppm. It gets as high as 700-800 in the tanks if I haven't water changed for a bit. The nano tanks don't have lids on them, so I mainly just top up weekly what has evaporated. When I do get around to doing a proper water change, the tds can be 700-800ppm. Sorry for the confusion I created there.
Tetra. Some people don't like them but aquarium shops worldwide swear by them. When you have a lot of tanks, as I do, it saves so much time and they are accurate. If you only have a couple of tanks then maybe you want to spend the time with liquid testing. When I was breeding Cichlids time was better spent in other areas, so test strips were the best option for me.
I think there is a little confusion about mironeukton powder. It is not a direct food source for your shrimp. It is a mineral additive that the shrimp mainly absorb through the water column, not directly by ingesting it by mouth. Yes, it is good and shrimplets benefit from the increased micro organisms created in your tank by introducing it, but it is not solely a food source. If you want a powder to feed your shrimp, Glasgarten Bacter AE is the best food to use. For shrimplets, Glasgarten Shrimp Baby is the best. These two foods are full of everything that your shrimp need, including all the minerals they have to have for survival. The makers of this food have spent years developing the correct and best food for shrimp. I have noticed by using this food my shrimp have zero moulting issues and I have a lot more berried females than I used to have. I hope this advice helps and I was not trying to tread on anyone's toes, but if I read something that is maybe a little bit misleading, I have to speak up.
I have never used a water conditioner for my tanks and I am not going to start now. As for the chlorine, I think Adelaide tap water is generally the same but the same can't be said for pipes, taps and everything else the water travels through before it comes out of your tap. My house is brand-new. We built it 5 years ago in a brand-new suburb.The pipes and everything else connected to it are new. But obviously some old houses with old pipes, etc., water coming out of their taps could be high in all sorts of heavy metals, copper and the like. Far be it for me to tell you not to use a conditioner for the water coming out of your tap. Please do what works for you. You would probably have a stroke if you saw how I water change my Neo tanks. They are very hardy and I can't seem to kill them. But my Caridina are much more sensitive to water parameters and I take much more care of their water than the Neo's. I have been keeping aquatic animals for well over 20years and I have made some mistakes over the years but you learn from them and carry on. I must remember that some people don't have as much experience as others and my posts should reflect that. I apologize if my previous post was confusing to some but I can't change the way I do things. If you have always used a water conditioner don't stop now. Keep doing what is making your shrimp happy and you happy.
I Don't use it. For the Neo's, water comes straight out of the tap and goes straight into the tank. For the 10years or so I spent breeding African Cichlids, I never used a water conditioner for their water either. But, for new comers or people setting up new tanks and don't want to wait a month or two for the tank to cycle, I suppose it has a purpose. Horses for courses, eh.